Gem-setting



(No Model.)

B. SCHILL. GEM SETTING.

No. 532,824. Patented Jan. 22, 1895.

m 0 T N E V W C 3 E F m w z] 10 a EMIL SCHILL. B c hmf= ATTO NEY THE NbRRIS Firms co, PNDTo-LWNQ, WASHINGTON, n. c.

NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EMIL SCHILL, OF NEWARK, NEYV JERSEY.

GEM-SETTING.

SPECIFICATION forming partof Letters Patent No. 532,824, dated January 22, 1895. Application filed November 13, 1894. Serial No. 528,632. (No model.

To to whom it may concern Be it known that I, EMIL SCHILL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Newark, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in- Jewelry; and I do hereby de; clare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which itappertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

My present invention relates to improvements in jewelry and has reference more especially, to a novel form of setting for clusters', used in rings, scarf-pins, and other jewelry in general, but the invention also has reference to a new method of securing precious stones in the settings of jewelry of the various kinds. 7'

The invention therefore consists in the novel form of setting for rings and other like jewelry, and further, in the novel arrangements and combinations of parts to be hereinafter fully described and finally embodied in the clauses of the claim.

As will be hereinafter understood, my present invention is applicable to all classes of.

cluster ornamentation or settings for diamonds, pearls, and other precious stones ;.and is furthermore applicable to all kinds of metals and is not limited to any particular design pr designs, nor to any particular shape oroutine.

The invention is illustrated in'the accompanying sheet of drawings, in which Figure l is a side elevation and Fig. 2 a top view of a finger-ring, provided with a setting for pearls, embodying the principles of myinvention. Fig. 3 is a vertical section of the ring, taken on line on in Fig. 2, and Fig. 4isa similar view, taken on line y in said Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of one of a number of small rings to be soldered to the top of the box or bezelof the ring. Fig. 5 is a plan view of the box or bezel of the ring, showing an arrangement of depressions therein, illustrating the appearance of the same, before the rings, shown in Fig. .5, aresecured in position between the depressions; Figs. 6 and 7 are a front view and aside view, respectively, of a stick or scarf pin, provided with a setting embodying the principles of my invention. Fig. 8 is a side view of a ring, in which the upper surface of the bezel is perfectly smooth, but is provided with rings thereon, between which the stones or pearls are arranged and held, and Fig. 9 is avertical cross-secction taken on line 2 in said Fig. 8.

Similar letters of reference are employed'in each of the above described views, to indicate corresponding parts.

In said views, or represents the bezel or top box of the piece of jewelry, to which is secured the shank b of a ring, as indicated in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 8 and 9, or a pin c, as illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7. I

The bezel or top box a may be of any desirable shape or configuration in outline, and, as will be seen more especially from an inspection of Figs. 4 and 5, in the upper surface of said bezel are formed, in any convenent manner, certain depressions a forming cups or bowls for the reception of the stones or pearls. Upon the raised portion a between two consecutive depressions a is arranged, in a vertical position, a ring d, made of wire, as shown in Fig. 5. Said rings are secured to the bezel in any convenient manner, but may be preferably soldered fast thereto, as will be understood. When all the rings d are fastened to the bezel, one ring between two consecutive depressions a in the bezel, then the stones or pearls e are forced down between the rings, which act as clamps to securely and permanently hold the stones in place in the cup-shaped depressions ad, in the upper surface of the bezel a, as will be clearly evident from Figs. 1, 2, 6 and 7.

In Figs. 8 and 9, the depressions a, in the upper surface of the bezel or box a are dispensed with, said surface being perfectly smooth as at a see Fig. 9, to which the rings d are fastened or soldered to form clamps, between which the stones are sprung and securely held therein by the spring-action of said rings d. This construction and arrangement of the several parts are especially adapted for use where it is desired to employ stones having a flat surface e, or when half-pearls are used, the flat part of the stones or pearls resting on the smooth surface a of the bezel, a, as clearly shown in said Fig. 9. The center portion of said upper surface of the bezel a may be provided with suitable clamps a formed thereonin the usual manner, for holding and securing in position any other larger and precious stone e as will be understood.

Owing to the fact thatthe precious stones or pearls are sprung between two of the vertically arranged rings d, the inner surfaces d of which come in holding contact with the edges of the stone or pearl and thereby hold the same in place, the stones or pearls can be very closely arranged, thereby producing a very fine cluster. Furthermore, there are no sharp ends, as in the old style of clamps, which ends are apt to catch in the clothing of a person and become bent thereby causing the loss of perhaps a very valuable stone or pearl.

It will be understood that this method of making settings for clusters for jewelry is not limited to any particular kind or character of metal, and is applicable to any shape or form of rings, pins, or any classes of jewelry in general.

By the novel arrangement and combinations of the parts, comprised in the invention described hereinabove, the parts can be quickly put together to produce a setting for the piece of jewelry and the precious stones or pearls can be readily and securely forced into position, at a less expense to the manufacturer, being a great saving in time and labor.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is-- 1. The combination, with a bezel of a piece of jewelry, of rings on said bezel, between which the precious stones or pearls are forced and held, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

2. The combination, with a bezel of apiece of jewelry, and cup-shaped depression of said bezel, of rings on said bezel, one ring between two consecutive depressions, and between which rings the precious stones or pearls are forced and held, substantially as and for the purposes set forth. a

3. The herein described setting for precious stones or pearls, comprising therein, a bezel at having depressions a, and rings at between two consecutively placed depressions, between which rings the precious stones or pearls are forced and held, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

4. The method hereinbefore described of producing a setting for precious stones or pearls, consisting in first, forming a bezel, and then soldering rings 61 on said bezel between which the precious stones or pearls are forced, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

5. The method hereinbefore described of producing a setting for precious stones or pearls, consisting in first, forming a bezel a, then producing cup-shaped depressions a therein, and soldering rings (1 on said bezel between said depressions, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

In testimony that I claim the invention set forth above I have hereunto set my hand this 12th day of November, 1894:.

EMIL SCHILL.

WM. H. CAMFIELD, Jr. 

